1 Blade 8"-44t "green VIPER" Hybrid RENEGADE BLADE® carbide brush cutter 203mm

Description

1 Blade 8"-44t "VIPER Hybrid" RENEGADE BLADE® carbide brush cutter trimmer 203mm
1 Blade 8"-44t "VIPER Hybrid" RENEGADE BLADE® carbide brush cutter trimmer 203mm
Click images to enlarge
Description
1 Blade
8"-44 teeth
...
green
"
VIPER
" / HYBRID
RENEGADE BLADE
®
Carbide Brush Cutter Blades
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IMPORTANT:
(
1
)
---UNIVERSAL FIT
-- each of our blades will fit either 25.4mm Arbor (same as 1”) or a 20mm Arbor with included “reducer washer” with YOUR "Blade Hardware". (
2
)
---
IMPORTANT
|
BLADE HARDWARE
: A Blade will {
not
} fit onto the Trimmer Axel Shaft by itself like the String Line Dispenser Spool will, so you must acquire "Blade Hardware" (mounting adapter kit or parts) that consists typically of two small discs; one has a raised circle on it that the blade hole (arbor) fits onto, the 2nd small disc is the cap disc, then screw on the Nut and apply a Cotter Pin. Sorry, we DO NOT supply blade hardware. (
3
)
--- CARBIDE MIX
in our teeth is proprietary and 2nd to none. Just Tungsten is not enough; additives like: Hafnium, Tantalum, Titanium, Molybdenum, Silicone, Zirconium, Boron, Niobium, Chromium, & Vanadium, make for a better Carbide Mix for longer lasting teeth. (
4
)
--- ULTRA HIGH RPM
: Our blade is built for any RPM even super high RPM Trimmers (10,000+ rpm). Manufactured with a more flexible steel as compared to the much more brittle steel found with table saw blades (table saw blades can shatter if they hit an obstacle, plus they are only built for approx. 3,450 rpm so they should never be used with gasoline powered Garden Trimmers. (
5
)
--- RENEGADE BLADE
is the ONLY Carbide Brush Blade BRAND on eBAY that has a {REPORT} from the foremost Testing Laboratory: UL, LLC.
CHOOSING THE CORRECT BLADE
:
Blades line up on a polarity scale with maximum
TEETH
on one end [
for CUT
] all the way to maximum
CAVITIES
[
for GRAB
] on the other end. EXAMPLE: Wood tree limbs require more teeth and no cavities, and wispy flexible brush or grass requires maximum grab as teeth alone just pushes grass over without cutting. THEREFORE: You must pick a {Teeth & Cavity Pattern} that best suits your material being cut. We offer blades to handle any: Wood, Bushes, Brambles, Hedging, Brush & Grass.
WE offer
6
BLADES...
each with its own targeted SPECIALTY based on TEETH COUNT:
(1)--RENEGADE STANDARD BLADE
Silver
[RSB]
Multi-Use
:
8"-80t, 9"-100t,10"-120t....
a "
thick wood limbs and hard bushes" specialty:
Has the most teeth we offer, so best for cutting solid wood based material. Hard stock type bushes, trimming tree limbs & branches and root suckers, solid wood based material is this blade's specialty but it will also cut firm brush, but if you are cutting soft grassy wispy brush or bushes, then high teeth count blade like this one will tend to push the brush over instead of cutting it due to {not} having "grabbing cavities" between the teeth.  High teeth count blades have more teeth per square inch to help avoid seizing in dense wood tree limbs while cutting.   Additionally, this blade or the one below (red razor) are probably the best blade types for {hedging} rubbery material (fibrous vines) as low teeth count blades with big cavities tend to grab and tear instead of cutting rubbery vines (like ivy).  This blade is our chain saw replacement with respect to cutting  wood material.  Large
5.5mm
teeth coupled with the most carbide teeth per blade inch that we offer makes this a dynamo in its specialty.  NOTE:  These teeth offer high durability having slightly larger thicker teeth but may have slightly {more} friction than the blade just below (Razor).
(2)--HYBRID
Yellow
TALON
: 8"-72t, 9"-84t, 10"-96t.....
a "
thick wood limbs and hard bushes" specialty:
Our most [
Advanced
] blade, and is approx. double the cost to manufacture but we don't charge double, creating a [incredible value] for our customers. This blade offers our longest
7mm
[
YG8
] narrow
KERF
low friction
teeth for more brazing contact to the blade disc for longer brazing (weld) durability.   Additionally, this is the only brush blade in the world (as far as we know) that offers a "
Polymer Low Friction Coating
", which is similar to
"Teflon
®"
or
"Ceramic"
found on non-stick pots and pans.  Our coating is
baked-on
(not painted-on) for extra durability and for the most ultra low friction & low seizing of any brush blade made in the world today. This blade also offers Low Friction [
rounded teeth backs
] as well for less steel making contact in the cut-lone.  Truly a one of a kind brush blade that can handle most any job that a chain saw can do and more, and with greater versatility.
(3)--HYBRID
Red
RAZOR
: 8"-56t, 9"-68t, 10"-80t....
"
medium wood limbs & firm bushes
specialty" plus brush & Brambles
"... This blade that is in the middle between both of our 2 RSB - STANDARD blades, but with thinner smaller
4.5mm
narrower low friction teeth and rounded
sharpened cavities
which is the only blade we know of that has both of these unique attributes.    It really {does it all} quite well... This blade combines the characteristics of both our RSB blades just    This blade offers our smallest narrowest
4.5mm
teeth for ultra low friction (low seizing)  but will power through branches up to "3-4" thick and also hedge rubbery ivy vines with the sharpened cavities.  Truly a one of a kind blade that can handle most any job.  The teeth on this blade cut with less
friction
but may have a slightly less durability than our bigger teeth blades depending on what is being cut.   The Red
Razor is primarily suited to Wood Cutting but also Brush & Brambles... as compared to our green VIPER that is primarily tailored to Brush & Brambles but also some wood cutting, due to teeth and cavity counts of both blades.
(4)--HYBRID
Green
VIPER
: 8"-44t, 9"-48t, 10"-52t....
a "
thin wood limbs + brush & brambles
" blade that combines our RED RAZOR's narrow low friction teeth with our BLUE HAWK's
angled sharpened cavities
all in one blade, which is the only blade we know of with these unique attributes.      This blade offers our smallest narrowest
4.5mm
teeth for ultra low friction (low seizing)  but will power through branches up to "3" thick with ease, and also hedge rubbery ivy vines and any hard bushes.  This blade is slightly more tailored to Brush & Brambles but with wood cutting as well versus the Red Razor being more tailored to wood cutting but also brush & brambles as well; but both blades are good with both wood and brush.  Truly a one of a kind blade that can handle most any job.
(5)--RENEGADE STANDARD BLADE
Silver
[RSB]
Brush & Brambles
:
8"-32t, 9"-36t, 10"-40t....
"
thin wood limbs + brush & brambles
and root suckers about 1"-2" diameter with ease, and hack into all types of brush and brambles (black berry bushes and such) and some harder bushes as well.  This blade "WILL GRAB" & cut flexible material as well where high tooth count blade like the first blade above just pushes and bends over bendable wispy grass material.  This blade has middle sized cavities for grabbing any flexible material, so this blade has some cross over for cutting smaller wood based material and great for most all semi firm brush and any bramble. If the brush you are cutting is more wispy & highly flexible like really tall grass you may do better with our blue Hawk {brush only} blade below, as it has our biggest {grabbing} cavities.   Larger thicker
5.5mm
teeth come on this our Standard Brush & Brambles blade for extra long-lasting durability.
(6)--HYBRID
Blue
HAWK
: 8"-20t, 9"-20t, 10"-20t.... T
his blade has a unique DEEP angled CAVITY pattern that really grabs and cuts the most wispy brush such as grasses and thinner bendable brush and brambles and bushes that most blades will just push over and {NOT} grab & cut.  This blade will cut pure bendable flexible stuff better than any other blade type we offer, and will also cut up to 1" limbs or root suckers with ease.  But this blade is "NOT" for cutting thicker wood material such as branches & limbs over 1", as it has limited teeth so it will seize (get stuck) in a thick wood tree limb.  The HAWK has our thickest
6.5mm
heavy duty reinforced backed teeth.  Our 8" diameter in this blade now comes with SHARPENED CAVITIES for teeth & cavity {DUAL} cutting.  We pay extra for sharpened cavities so you can have dual cut capability.
BLADE DIAMETER
We sell 3 blade diameters:  8", 9" and 10"...  as a rule of thumb here are the engine sizes recommended for each diameter size to avoid engine bogging down:
---8"
... any engine size 19cc on up to 60+cc
---9"
... 28cc engine on up to 60+cc
---10"
...  35cc engine on up to 60+cc
Note, this is the recommended engine power for blade sizes, you can always decide to run larger blades on smaller engines depending on material being cut.  Example:  Soft grassy brush requires less engine power (
torque
) than cutting hardwood tree limbs so decide accordingly.   A 10" blade has lots more centrifugal force generated when spinning at high RPM's which requires more torque than a 9" or 8".
HOW TO CUT EFFECTIVELY
CUTTING TECHNIQUE
:   Do not cut thick wood material straight across, instead create a
rounded
cut line.  So picture rocking your blade back and forth across a limb when cutting it.  Picture creating an upside down "U" inside the cut-line so you are always cutting the crest of the "U". .  This keeps the amount of teeth in contact with the wood "lower" and therefore less FRICTION is created.
Always pull a blade out of a cut-line in a perpendicular manner; if your blade is in the cut-line in a tree branch and you yank down you can possibly bend & warp the blade disc creating unwanted vibration.
FRICTION & HEAT
:
Remember the key to any effective cutting is having the lowest FRICTION possible.  The lower the FRICTION the more quickly your material is cut.  Many customers think their blade is DULL before it is, due to FRICTION lowering effectiveness.  To check sharpness, touch your fingers to the tips of the blade, if still sharp you will feel the sharpness.  So if effectiveness is dropping while still SHARP, then this says the blade is GUNKED-UP.  GUNK is caused by sticky SAP and slows the blades rpm's turning inside the cutline, similar to GLUE.    Sap builds up on the {blade disc} and on the sides of the teeth and teeth cavities, which rubs inside the cut-line causing FRICTION and therefore HEAT.  HEAT expands metal, so the {blade disc} gets fatter inside the cut-line due to excessive HEAT expansion causing seizing and bogging.   RECOMMENDATION:  during cutting sappy wet sticky wood material always have a can of WD-40 or maybe a SILICONE spray for your blade.  When done cutting, clean your blades in solvent so as to keep them "low friction" shiny SMOOTH.
GRAVITY
:
Always use GRAVITY to open the cut-line while cutting.  So as you are cutting the limb, the cut-line opens and does NOT PINCH your blade.  Cut from the top side of an extended limb, or at least from the sides, NOT THE BOTTOM as gravity pushes down on the limb not up.  If a sucker is growing up from a tree root, cut it at a 45 degree angle not straight across to avoid gravity pinching the cut line on your blade.  When cutting try to tug on the limb to "V" open the cut line.
SHARPENING
:
It is not recommended to sharpen carbide alter-bevel teeth.  At our prices it is the most cost effective to toss and replace.  Diamond sharpening grinding tools are expensive and can be worn when sharpening carbide, don't waste your good {diamond tools} or your {valuable TIME} as both cost more money than replacing our blades at these prices.   This is why our blades are much more cost effective than a chain saw or a chain saw blade which both are
quick dulling
PLAIN STEEL and eat up lots of valuable time constantly sharpening.   ALSO:  sharpening a round blade can throw the balance off and create vibration that you don't want with one of our blades at 10,000 rpm's.  We sell our blades cheap enough to toss and replace.
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PAYMENTS ACCEPTED
:
Paypal...
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SHIPPING
:
United States & Territories
:
via USPS Priority Mail:
FREE
Canada &
International
:
via USPS Mail
TRACKING
:  If your item is not received but the tracking # shows it was fully
delivered
to you, there is nothing we can do on our end and the USPS will not do anything to assist.  This typically means YOUR
personal postman
scanned it on your front porch but then took the package back to the CENTRAL PROCESSING CENTER of the USPS.  You are supposed to get a colored slip saying this but sometimes they are lost.  Please watch the tracking number which is posted in both Paypal and Ebay.
Please inquire directly to YOUR mailman
.
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